Look like a kind of stretched X, once assembled the quad looks great. The carbon is 4mm on the bottom plate and not super stiff, there is a little flex on mine, perhaps is either the carbon used or the fact the arms are narrow, which will be good in flight, less frag is always good. The top plate is 2mm thick and very stiff. I lowered the top deck about 6mm by using shorter standoffs and lowering the top parts of camera plates. this made fittinf the Runcam Micro Swift2 a tight fit up top so bear this in mind if you do something like this. I have also trimmed the top plate frontal opening for the camera to suit the micro swift lens angle better. Gave all of the frame edges a good sanding (careful with the dust) and sealed the edges with thin cyano glue. I'm using Emax 1306 -3300kv and 3" props, and AIO racestar 30A, not flown yet but looks great and I reckon it will be a great flier.

Look like a kind of stretched X, once assembled the quad looks great. The carbon is 4mm on the bottom plate and not super stiff, there is a little flex on mine, perhaps is either the carbon used or the fact the arms are narrow, which will be good in flight, less frag is always good. The top plate is 2mm thick and very stiff. I lowered the top deck about 6mm by using shorter standoffs and lowering the top parts of camera plates. this made fittinf the Runcam Micro Swift2 a tight fit up top so bear this in mind if you do something like this. I have also trimmed the top plate frontal opening for the camera to suit the micro swift lens angle better. Gave all of the frame edges a good sanding (careful with the dust) and sealed the edges with thin cyano glue. I'm using Emax 1306 -3300kv and 3" props, and AIO racestar 30A, not flown yet but looks great and I reckon it will be a great flier.

Look like a kind of stretched X, once assembled the quad looks great. The carbon is 4mm on the bottom plate and not super stiff, there is a little flex on mine, perhaps is either the carbon used or the fact the arms are narrow, which will be good in flight, less frag is always good. The top plate is 2mm thick and very stiff. I lowered the top deck about 6mm by using shorter standoffs and lowering the top parts of camera plates. this made fittinf the Runcam Micro Swift2 a tight fit up top so bear this in mind if you do something like this. I have also trimmed the top plate frontal opening for the camera to suit the micro swift lens angle better. Gave all of the frame edges a good sanding (careful with the dust) and sealed the edges with thin cyano glue. I'm using Emax 1306 -3300kv and 3" props, and AIO racestar 30A, not flown yet but looks great and I reckon it will be a great flier.

so I have bought it for a replacement on my x140 furibee drone, and this frame and the belonging stuffs are amazing huge pack. you got everything you could need for a frame replacement. the only one bad thing is the strap a bit old, so every deattach time falls out some little stuff from it.

so I have bought it for a replacement on my x140 furibee drone, and this frame and the belonging stuffs are amazing huge pack. you got everything you could need for a frame replacement. the only one bad thing is the strap a bit old, so every deattach time falls out some little stuff from it.

so I have bought it for a replacement on my x140 furibee drone, and this frame and the belonging stuffs are amazing huge pack. you got everything you could need for a frame replacement. the only one bad thing is the strap a bit old, so every deattach time falls out some little stuff from it.